Big Basin Backpacking with Offspring - Rain Dance Maggie

Trip Overview

Big Basin is becoming my go-to spot for a quick weekend escape, and I wanted to share it with my two oldest children. Our planned hike was a 18ish mile loop starting at the visitor center, down to the Alder camp site for the first night, back up to the Sunset camp site for the second night, and then back to the start. I had originally planned a Lane/Sunset loop, but the campsites weren't available when I tried to reserve them about two weeks out. The camp sites were $15 a night, and the parking permit was $10. We completed most of the hike in two days in the beginning of March 2019.

GPX file

Preparation

I was getting a little stir-crazy being cooped up in the house over the Winter, so I decided that I would take a trip with my oldest son and daughter. I greatly enjoyed my last trip to Big Basin and thought it would be a great place for my daughter's first backpacking adventure. Redwoods are always a hit, right?

I used my trusty Osprey Atmos 65, and the kids each used inexpensive Amazon/Walmart packs. My pack was actually pretty full because I tried to keep my daughter's pack as light as possible for her first hike, probably around 10 pounds of mostly water. Our accommodations were my LanShan ultralight two man tent and various sleeping bags. I hiked in my Ultra Lone Peak 3.0, and I bought new shoes for the kids, some New Balance trail runners for my son and some Amazon hiking boots for my daughter.

Food was standard except for the goodies I brought just for the kids: Oreos, Oreo candy bars, Pringles, etc. A week before the trip, I packed the bags for a two mile test run that went well. The kids were moderately hyped and had no idea that two solid days of water torture awaited them.

Weather

The forecast for the weekend was suboptimal. Temperatures were fine, but rain was forecasted for much of the weekend. In hindsight, I was far too optimistic about the projected amount of rain and incorrectly relying on forecasts from the nearest weather station, which were completely wrong possibly due to vastly different micro-climates. It rained WAY more than I was expecting.

Difficulty

The trail conditions were mostly okay and clear. There were a few spots with fallen debris that were likely caused by recent storms, but the real issue was the muddy conditions. Even though I was able to keep my feet from getting completely drenched for the most part, the damp conditions were oppressive and from what I've read, somewhat typical of March in Big Basin.

The Hike - Day 1

We started the day full of energy and hope. I had warned the kids it would be rainy, and all seemed well as we pulled into the lot and started gearing up. The kids put on their rain jackets, and I shuffle into a shitty poncho and wish I would have just spent $10 on another decent rain jacket. It is a little misty as we set off, but the rain doesn't seem so bad in our initial excitement of being on the trail. My daughter is feeling great and entertains us with games and stories as we walk.

The initial excitement fades quickly though because the start is all uphill and the rain begins to soak in. The friendly chatter stops, and the kids become silent so I know things are turning South. I encourage them with promises of majestic views and downhill trails, but they are not buying what I am selling. I begin to doubt whether this trip is a good idea because the silence is morphing into muttering.

Despite the continued rain, the kids are troopers and continue to put one foot in front of the other. The rain is light but persistent, and the trail is wet but mostly not soggy. My daughter gets tired of wearing the rain pants, which she will regret later, and strikes a pose on a boulder. Moral is diminished but not yet completely gone.

When we get about halfway through, the kids are in outright mutiny. We have a conversation about turning back, but I convince them to go on because going back to the car would take just as long as going to the campsite. I promise that it will be warm and cozy in the tent. The kids are sure to let me know that I am (1) subjecting them to torture and (2) an idiot for not paying close enough attention to the weather forecast. I find their arguments to be exaggerated, but I sympathize with their sentiment because I am having similar thoughts in my own head.

We stop for lunch at Berry Creek Falls and muster our collective will to finish these last few miles strong. Turns out I am the only one hungry, and my kids can't be bothered to eat or appreciate the waterfall. We head South and are quickly stopped by the high waters of the creek. The water is so high that the metal crossings are submerged, and my mind churns as I weigh our options. The kids are NOT happy about the idea of removing our shoes and fording across, so I decide to skip the Alder camp site and turn around and head to Sunset camp for the night. It is supposedly fully reserved, but I have to just assume that at least one person cancelled their trip because of the weather.

Things really go bad when we start to travel uphill again. My son is mostly silent but his gaze is pure death, and my daughter is delivering an almost constant litany of complaints and despair. I can do nothing other than accept their judgment and promise that things will be better as soon as we arrive at camp. The only other highlight of the day are the ridiculous number of salamanders running around in the rain.

As we neared the top and Silver Falls, my daughter is really struggling with the uphill. I had already transferred most of the gear from her pack to mine, and I let her latch onto my pack so I could mule her up the hill as best as I could. She is completely losing it at this point.

We finally make it to the top early in the afternoon. The kids are done with walking, and I can't get the tent up fast enough so that they can get out of the rain. The kids get into the tent and, other than bathroom breaks, do not leave until the next morning when it is time to leave. My son brought pajamas, so he was able to change and get nice and dry. My daughter did not, which the kids are sure to remind me is my fault for not packing enough, and she's less than happy about not having dry clothes to change into. We are at least able to get out of our wet gear and crawl into our bags.

The stay in the tent is actually very pleasant in comparison to walking in the rain. We eat dinner and just chill in the tent and try to dry out our clothes as much as possible. Unfortunately, it is humid as hell so our clothes just go from soaked to slightly less soaked during the night.

The Hike - Day 2

My new sleeping pad is way comfier (Nemo - Astro Insulated Lite), so I wake up feeling pretty refreshed. It is still raining, but we plan to wait it out because the forecast said that the chance of rain should go down throughout the day. The kids are feeling better about the trip now, especially since we've decided to cut things a day short and head back to the car.

Around 9 the rain has eased up a little, and we get back on the trail. It is still damp and foggy, but we are excited about the prospects of getting home and dry. There are a still plenty of salamanders on the trail, and we discover a new friend, a banana slug!

My son has elected to hike in his pajamas since they are dry, and he is getting a lot of compliments about the pizza print. Overall, the Sunset Trail seems less muddy, probably because it is used less, and the hike goes by relatively quickly with little drama. An early highlight are some rocks with carvings. Of course, my kids immediately find a prominent penis to chortle about.

Sunset Trail doesn't have a lot of Redwoods, but the views are nice. It also has some beautiful, I think, Pacific Mandrones that catch the eye. It is nice to see the kids enjoying themselves more, but I can tell the shadow of the previous day is still in the back of their minds. Whenever it starts to rain a little, my son expresses his frustration at the ongoing bullshit weather. Thankfully, the rain is intermittent and the highlights are pretty frequent.

I promise my kids they can have all the junk food they want once we get back to headquarters, so we are cruising pretty nicely for the last couple miles. I somehow get a little mixed up on the trails though and lead us on a half mile detour. My son's disappointment at this knows no bounds. We eventually do make it though, and the kids gorge themselves on candy and soda. I'm feeling pretty done with the whole hiking thing too, so I let them sit with the gear while I go fetch the car. We made it!

Epilogue

I'm bummed that I was unable to pass along a love for backpacking to my kids on this trip. They both are adamant that they will never camp with me again, but I'm hopeful they'll come around eventually. Despite the less than ideal conditions and hardship, I thought it was a good trip and probably taught the kids a few lessons about adversity, which I suppose is part of a dad's job. I still have two kids that have never been backpacking, and I am definitely going to make sure the weather is a lot nicer for those trips.

Big Basin Backpacking Trip - Californication Achieved in 30 Miles

Trip Overview

Big Basin is a State Park with a plethora of trails and majestic redwoods. My hike was a 30ish mile loop starting at the visitor center, up to the Lane Camp site for the first night, down to the beach and Alder camp site for the second night, and then back to the start. There are plenty of options for trails between sites, and I tried to go through as many scenic routes as possible without retreading too much. The camp sites had to be reserved in advance for $15 a night and $10 for the parking permit. I completed the hike in three days in the beginning of October 2018.

GPX file

Preparation

I decided to go on this trip on somewhat of a whim. About two weeks before a three day weekend, it occurred to me that I had the opportunity for a trip, so I started searching around for nearby backpacking trails. Big Sur was an option, but I passed because there was a complete fire ban due to drought. I am not ready to do all cold food on a backpacking trip. The next best thing I could find was Big Basin, and I was excited about my first trip to a redwood forest.

I used my Osprey Atmos 65, which was complete overkill for a three day hike. It actually does a pretty good job of compacting itself with everything pulled tight, so it didn't feel clunky at all. The weight was also a non-issue because my planned daily mileage was pretty low. Other notable gear were my trusty LanShan ultralight two man tent and Aegismax mummy bag. I didn't have a scale to get the weight of my bag, but I'm guessing it was 25-30 pounds fully loaded with food and water. For shoes, I've been using the Ultra Lone Peak 3.0, which have performed admirably.

Food was pretty standard fare: Knorr sides, tortillas, peanut butter, coffee, Oreos, etc. I'm happy to say that the prep was a lot easier for this trip since I've had a few trips under my belt. It is nice having a base pack that is pretty locked in, so all I had to worry about was the food and water.

Weather

The forecast for the weekend was great. Highs in the high 60's and low 50's with plenty of sunshine. I'm really enjoying the great weather here on the west coast so far, which is much more conducive to outdoor activities than Louisiana/Mississippi.

Difficulty

The trails in general are very well marked. The only confusion I had was at portions of the trail that were shutdown for various reasons. The detours weren't too hard to follow though. Compared to what I am used to, the elevation change was no joke, especially on day three when I did the McCrary Ridge Trail.

The Hike - Day 1

As I descended into the valley, my driving skills are tested while I catch glimpses of the beautiful scenery. The woods look ancient and peaceful. Unfortunately, life has a way of destroying peace, and I start my first day parked on the side of the road where I still have cell signal so that I can get my house in Louisiana under contract. Then when I finally reach Big Basin Park Headquarters, I learn that they have WiFi...

By the time I make it down to the park, I'm raring to go because of the delay. I park the car, double check my locks/keys (okay maybe triple), and then speed down the trail. I briefly stop at a felled giant redwood because it is my first encounter with the behemoths, kids included for scale.

Unbeknownst to me during my planning, Big Basin was hosting a race on the same weekend as my backpacking trip. The constant trickle of runners coming down the trail interfere with my planned solitude a little, but the trail is still peaceful and a welcome break from the desk job. I chat up and cheer on some of the runners as they go by because they are looking a little haggard.

There had been almost no rain for the past couple months, so I erred on the side of caution and packed almost four liters of water. I find almost no water on the trail, which validates my decision. I think the last water is about two miles in before the trail starts to climb up into the dryness. The first section of the trail had quite a few redwoods along the creek, but their numbers greatly diminish as the elevation increases.

Near the top I run into a couple backpackers on their way down. They've been on the trail for a few days and look battle-hardened. I chat them up a little, and one of them shares that Big Basin HQ has a restaurant that serves great burgers. Target acquired! I thank them for the info and continue on the trail back into the trees. While at the top, I snap a couple pictures, including one of a dark and mysterious adventurer.

I cruise through the last couple miles to get to the camp site. I snap a picture of a lone redwood on the way that seems overly large in its isolation. When I arrive there is a couple setting up camp, but all the other sites are open. I wander around until I find the highest one and drop my pack off. It feels good to be at my destination after a short afternoon hike.

As dusk settles in the campsites begin to fill. A bunch of boy scouts arrive while blaring "We Are the Champions" on a smartphone. The joy of their youth makes me smile and shake my head. I eventually setup my tent and settle in for the night. The site is very cozy and has nice facilities for a rustic site. Dinner is simple and satisfying, sending me to bed with a full belly.

The Hike - Day 2

I wake up feeling less than refreshed because sleeping in a tent is still not my friend. I typically spend the night spinning on the air mattress in an attempt to spread the pain. Maybe I just need to sleep rugged more often to acclimate. I'll have to plan more camping trips and see.

I get a pretty good start on the morning with oatmeal and coffee, and I'm on the trail again around 8:30. My legs feel great since I'm coming off a short day, but I'm down to one liter of water. After a couple miles I discover an old shingle mill. The old burners and other equipment give the place an apocalyptic vibe, which I'm a fan of.

I make my way down to ridge road, which appears to be an old log trail. There are no runners, and I appreciate the peace and quiet. At one point I stop to listen to the wind rustling through the trees because it is so loud it sounds like the ocean. The trees eventually clear and reveal a beautiful view of the ocean. Apparently, this is also the spot where people usually run out of nudes.

I think about changing my route, but I decide not to because I'm low on water and want to stick to my original plan with known water sources. When I make it back to the Skyline to Sea trail, the steady stream of runners reappears. I somewhat envy their mobility and swiftness as they run down the trail, but I think I am happier trudging down the trail to give me more time to soak it all in. 

Berry Creek Falls is beautiful despite the lack of rain in recent months. I stop to eat lunch and chat with a couple that are camping for the first time in a long time. I'm blown away by the weight they are carrying, especially when he starts telling me about the fresh produce he has packed. You have to tip your hat to folks that are making fine cuisine in the middle of nowhere on a camp stove. I stop to fill up my water from the Creek just in case.

After the falls I focus on my pace so that I can make it down to the beach and back up to my campsite before night fall. The woods are replaced by farms, which are then replaced by marshland. The last bit I scramble down before the beach is great for building my anticipation.

Arriving at the beach feels lovely, and the kiteboarders and folks stunt kiting are unexpected, free entertainment. I take off my shoes and walk through the cold restoring waters of the ocean. I chillax for a bit and then gear back up for a quick couple miles to the campsite. There is a little park at the bottom with a rest area, where I fill up my water.

On the way to the campsite, I spot a bobcat that seems to be mutually curious. I creep toward it for a better look before deciding I should probably just leave it alone. You can't trust cats. Upon arriving at Adele Camp I find it to be completely deserted. I checked the next door campsite, and it only has one family there. 

I'm a little weirded out about camping at an empty campsite for some reason, but I decide to just go with it and setup for the night. I hate to admit that my paranoia grows as night settles in. I'm used to camping on the trail by myself or camping at sites with other people, but being the only person at a site feels wrong. I start shining my flashlight into the woods when I hear animals rustling and feel myself getting worked up over nothing. 

Ultimately, I realize that I'm perfectly safe in the woods and settle my mind down so I can fall asleep. Another uncomfortable night at least causes me to wake up in the morning far before sunrise for some stargazing.

The Hike - Day 3

I'm on the trail around 7:30 after my date with the stars. The trail is pretty deserted since it is Columbus Day, so I finally attain a full day free from runners. A little ways in I spot what I think is a yellow piece of trash, but it is actually a banana slug, crazy looking buggers.

When I arrive at the turnoff for McGrady Ridge, I'm confronted with warning signs about extremely steep climbs that are more suitable for horseback riders. It makes me second guess my planned route, but I put on my big-boy pants and soldier on.

McGrady is STEEP and nicely shaded. The complete desolation is well worth the extra effort. After winding through uphill portion, the trail tops out at a humorous sign. I couldn't help myself and traveled the 0.1 miles to discover the completely unexciting deadend as promised.

The real payoff of McGrady Ridge is Wheat Overlook, which provides a spectacular view of the ocean. The picture fails to convey the enormity of the ocean at this angle, which portrays the ocean as a rising great wall high in the clouds. The views here are the best of the entire trip.

The final few miles back to headquarters are gentle and relaxing. I run into a lady who is making a second attempt at reaching Wheat Lookout, which I'm sure did not disappoint. I snap quite a few pictures and take my time because I'd rather the trip not end, which is a nice change from my typical, hectic finishes.

Epilogue

The end cannot be denied, and I finish my long hike at the general store. Alas, the promised burgers are a lie, so I have to make due with a gas station hot dog and ice-cream sandwich. It's It is a surprisingly decent substitute for greasy meat. Oatmeal cookies and ice-cream are a banging combo, and the processed sugar enters my blood just in time to keep the junky shakes at bay.

Grand Canyon Day Hike - Long Way Down

WARNING - Don't be dumb like me and venture down into the Grand Canyon without any supplies. Better to plan your trip and hike with all the necessary nutrition, maps, etc.

California or bust... Actually, I'm already here in Cali soaking up the rays and good vibes, but I haven't gotten around to doing a blog entry for my detour to the Grand Canyon. I had five long days to drive from New Orleans to Monterey, CA, that I decided to break up with a quick side trip on August 30. 

Preparation

None other than to get a camp site. I couldn't camp in the canyon itself because you have to reserve those sites about a year in advance. I had all my gear with me, but I ended up only taking a single water bottle.

Weather

It was hot and dry. Historical weather says it was 80F, but a thermometer at the bottom of the Canyon read 105F. So it was a pretty nice day by Louisiana standards either way.

Difficulty

The way down Bright Angel Trailhead wasn't bad at all. The trail is clear as a bell and there is water at 1.5, 3, and 5ish miles. However, the way up was brutal even without any gear weighing me down.

The Hike

I arrive at the Grand Canyon around 1 pm after two and a half days of travel through Denton, TX, and Albuquerque, NM. The rinse/repeat of drive/sleep were starting to get to me, and I was looking forward to getting outside and doing anything. I pull into my campsite and am greeted by some elk eating mistletoe, so I feel like I am off to a good start.

I decide to start with some biking, which brings me to the visitor center to get a helmet. I refuse to grab a map for some reason (perhaps already trying to conserve paper as I transition to being a Californian), and I set off for the Bright Angel Trailhead. I'm not much of a biker so don't have a lot of experience to judge, but Grand Canyon Village did not seem like a great place to bike. I manage to get turned around and ride in places I shouldn't have before finally arriving at my destination. 

My arrival is anticlimactic though because there don't appear to be any bike trails along the rim because the normal bike trails were restricted to bus use only. I am pretty frustrated, but my disappointment is clearly a consequence of my failure to prepare. Rather than be bested by my impulsiveness, I resolve to return to camp and return on foot. Of course, this round trip could have been avoided if I had the foresight to bring a bike lock...

Grand Canyon Village has a nice bus system that will take you pretty much anywhere, so I am back at the trailhead by around 3 pm. I tell myself that I'll hike a couple miles to get a taste for the Canyon and then come right back up. I have an uncanny ability to lie to myself.

My trusty water bottle and I begin the trek down into the Canyon with the throng of tourists. The views truly are miraculous, so much so that you quickly get majesty-fatigue. The hike down is pretty moderate except for the spikes of fear that hit you every now and again when you peer down the steep sides of the numerous switchbacks. 

As I descend, I am struck by how quickly the wall behind me raises as if coming out of the ground on a pulley.

I hike down to the first water stop at 1.5 miles and quickly decide to keep going. At this point, I'm doing the math in my head to decide how far I can get before the sun sets. I decide that I have to turn back at around one and a half hours; otherwise, I'll be climbing out blind. The number of hikers really starts to dwindle once you get a couple miles in.

With my time limit in mind, I start to jog on the long stretches of the trail. I'm not accustomed to the lack of sweat drenching my clothes due to the low humidity, so I have to be more cognizant of staying hydrated as I roll through the second water stop at around 3 miles. My excitement and urgency rise as I get closer to the bottom, and now I'm focusing on getting as close to the river as possible.

It feels great as the trail levels off, and I arrive at the Indian Garden Campground. There is another water spigot to fill up at before strolling through the Garden. I didn't realize it at the time, but I'm pretty winded based on my Blair Witch-esque video.

I arrive at a fork and decide to go to Plateau Point, which is only about 1.5 miles away, rather than attempting to go all the way down to the Colorado River. As I trek toward the Point, I finally get out of the shadow of the Canyon and into the sun of the desert. I spot a few lizards slithering around and a flash of some sort of rodent. There's an old well near the Point that was good for getting a clear view of the area.

The roar of the Colorado River fills the air and pulls me toward the Point. After a quick scramble through some rocks, I'm there looking down onto the River, and it is breathtakingly brown. I meet a couple campers at the Point that are happy to snap of picture of me and my water bottle.

I chat with the campers, and I can tell that the guy thinks I'm a little daft for hiking down into the canyon without supplies. Thankfully, he's nice enough to give me a Luna bar so I can refuel before heading back to the top. The trek down took me about an hour and 40 minutes, and I'm expecting the way up to be about an hour longer. I forgot to record my activity on the way down, but the way up is below.

I walk briskly through the desert and then start jogging as soon as I reach the shade of the Canyon. The campers at the Point let me know that even if I'm still on the trail at night, I can stop and wait for the moon to rise because it is near full and provides enough light to walk. However, I'm pretty determined to get out before nightfall.

Once I hit the incline, I know I'm going to be in for a tough battle. I walk past a father and son team that is also working their way up to the top, but they have headlamps and jackets ready. I also run into a couple from Thailand and embarrass myself with the little bit of Thai I still remember. At this point, I see a few people in the distance working their way up that seem like a good target to catch.

My targets are moving at a good pace, but I'm able to catch them a few miles from the top when they stop to refill for water. I decide to fall in behind them so I can zone out and tail them to the end. The last miles are tough, and I'm so thankful to have some cheery people from Belgium to chat with to take my mind off the climb. The two guys are biking across North and South America as inspired by Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman in Long Way Down/Round.

Finally, we make it to the top and exchange high fives. The sun is still about 15 minutes from setting, and I jump on a bus to head straight for the food court. I devour a couple slices of supreme pizza and enjoy a cold glass of water. It was a long way down and back 'round but well worth it.