Big Basin Backpacking Trip - Californication Achieved in 30 Miles

Trip Overview

Big Basin is a State Park with a plethora of trails and majestic redwoods. My hike was a 30ish mile loop starting at the visitor center, up to the Lane Camp site for the first night, down to the beach and Alder camp site for the second night, and then back to the start. There are plenty of options for trails between sites, and I tried to go through as many scenic routes as possible without retreading too much. The camp sites had to be reserved in advance for $15 a night and $10 for the parking permit. I completed the hike in three days in the beginning of October 2018.

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Preparation

I decided to go on this trip on somewhat of a whim. About two weeks before a three day weekend, it occurred to me that I had the opportunity for a trip, so I started searching around for nearby backpacking trails. Big Sur was an option, but I passed because there was a complete fire ban due to drought. I am not ready to do all cold food on a backpacking trip. The next best thing I could find was Big Basin, and I was excited about my first trip to a redwood forest.

I used my Osprey Atmos 65, which was complete overkill for a three day hike. It actually does a pretty good job of compacting itself with everything pulled tight, so it didn't feel clunky at all. The weight was also a non-issue because my planned daily mileage was pretty low. Other notable gear were my trusty LanShan ultralight two man tent and Aegismax mummy bag. I didn't have a scale to get the weight of my bag, but I'm guessing it was 25-30 pounds fully loaded with food and water. For shoes, I've been using the Ultra Lone Peak 3.0, which have performed admirably.

Food was pretty standard fare: Knorr sides, tortillas, peanut butter, coffee, Oreos, etc. I'm happy to say that the prep was a lot easier for this trip since I've had a few trips under my belt. It is nice having a base pack that is pretty locked in, so all I had to worry about was the food and water.

Weather

The forecast for the weekend was great. Highs in the high 60's and low 50's with plenty of sunshine. I'm really enjoying the great weather here on the west coast so far, which is much more conducive to outdoor activities than Louisiana/Mississippi.

Difficulty

The trails in general are very well marked. The only confusion I had was at portions of the trail that were shutdown for various reasons. The detours weren't too hard to follow though. Compared to what I am used to, the elevation change was no joke, especially on day three when I did the McCrary Ridge Trail.

The Hike - Day 1

As I descended into the valley, my driving skills are tested while I catch glimpses of the beautiful scenery. The woods look ancient and peaceful. Unfortunately, life has a way of destroying peace, and I start my first day parked on the side of the road where I still have cell signal so that I can get my house in Louisiana under contract. Then when I finally reach Big Basin Park Headquarters, I learn that they have WiFi...

By the time I make it down to the park, I'm raring to go because of the delay. I park the car, double check my locks/keys (okay maybe triple), and then speed down the trail. I briefly stop at a felled giant redwood because it is my first encounter with the behemoths, kids included for scale.

Unbeknownst to me during my planning, Big Basin was hosting a race on the same weekend as my backpacking trip. The constant trickle of runners coming down the trail interfere with my planned solitude a little, but the trail is still peaceful and a welcome break from the desk job. I chat up and cheer on some of the runners as they go by because they are looking a little haggard.

There had been almost no rain for the past couple months, so I erred on the side of caution and packed almost four liters of water. I find almost no water on the trail, which validates my decision. I think the last water is about two miles in before the trail starts to climb up into the dryness. The first section of the trail had quite a few redwoods along the creek, but their numbers greatly diminish as the elevation increases.

Near the top I run into a couple backpackers on their way down. They've been on the trail for a few days and look battle-hardened. I chat them up a little, and one of them shares that Big Basin HQ has a restaurant that serves great burgers. Target acquired! I thank them for the info and continue on the trail back into the trees. While at the top, I snap a couple pictures, including one of a dark and mysterious adventurer.

I cruise through the last couple miles to get to the camp site. I snap a picture of a lone redwood on the way that seems overly large in its isolation. When I arrive there is a couple setting up camp, but all the other sites are open. I wander around until I find the highest one and drop my pack off. It feels good to be at my destination after a short afternoon hike.

As dusk settles in the campsites begin to fill. A bunch of boy scouts arrive while blaring "We Are the Champions" on a smartphone. The joy of their youth makes me smile and shake my head. I eventually setup my tent and settle in for the night. The site is very cozy and has nice facilities for a rustic site. Dinner is simple and satisfying, sending me to bed with a full belly.

The Hike - Day 2

I wake up feeling less than refreshed because sleeping in a tent is still not my friend. I typically spend the night spinning on the air mattress in an attempt to spread the pain. Maybe I just need to sleep rugged more often to acclimate. I'll have to plan more camping trips and see.

I get a pretty good start on the morning with oatmeal and coffee, and I'm on the trail again around 8:30. My legs feel great since I'm coming off a short day, but I'm down to one liter of water. After a couple miles I discover an old shingle mill. The old burners and other equipment give the place an apocalyptic vibe, which I'm a fan of.

I make my way down to ridge road, which appears to be an old log trail. There are no runners, and I appreciate the peace and quiet. At one point I stop to listen to the wind rustling through the trees because it is so loud it sounds like the ocean. The trees eventually clear and reveal a beautiful view of the ocean. Apparently, this is also the spot where people usually run out of nudes.

I think about changing my route, but I decide not to because I'm low on water and want to stick to my original plan with known water sources. When I make it back to the Skyline to Sea trail, the steady stream of runners reappears. I somewhat envy their mobility and swiftness as they run down the trail, but I think I am happier trudging down the trail to give me more time to soak it all in. 

Berry Creek Falls is beautiful despite the lack of rain in recent months. I stop to eat lunch and chat with a couple that are camping for the first time in a long time. I'm blown away by the weight they are carrying, especially when he starts telling me about the fresh produce he has packed. You have to tip your hat to folks that are making fine cuisine in the middle of nowhere on a camp stove. I stop to fill up my water from the Creek just in case.

After the falls I focus on my pace so that I can make it down to the beach and back up to my campsite before night fall. The woods are replaced by farms, which are then replaced by marshland. The last bit I scramble down before the beach is great for building my anticipation.

Arriving at the beach feels lovely, and the kiteboarders and folks stunt kiting are unexpected, free entertainment. I take off my shoes and walk through the cold restoring waters of the ocean. I chillax for a bit and then gear back up for a quick couple miles to the campsite. There is a little park at the bottom with a rest area, where I fill up my water.

On the way to the campsite, I spot a bobcat that seems to be mutually curious. I creep toward it for a better look before deciding I should probably just leave it alone. You can't trust cats. Upon arriving at Adele Camp I find it to be completely deserted. I checked the next door campsite, and it only has one family there. 

I'm a little weirded out about camping at an empty campsite for some reason, but I decide to just go with it and setup for the night. I hate to admit that my paranoia grows as night settles in. I'm used to camping on the trail by myself or camping at sites with other people, but being the only person at a site feels wrong. I start shining my flashlight into the woods when I hear animals rustling and feel myself getting worked up over nothing. 

Ultimately, I realize that I'm perfectly safe in the woods and settle my mind down so I can fall asleep. Another uncomfortable night at least causes me to wake up in the morning far before sunrise for some stargazing.

The Hike - Day 3

I'm on the trail around 7:30 after my date with the stars. The trail is pretty deserted since it is Columbus Day, so I finally attain a full day free from runners. A little ways in I spot what I think is a yellow piece of trash, but it is actually a banana slug, crazy looking buggers.

When I arrive at the turnoff for McGrady Ridge, I'm confronted with warning signs about extremely steep climbs that are more suitable for horseback riders. It makes me second guess my planned route, but I put on my big-boy pants and soldier on.

McGrady is STEEP and nicely shaded. The complete desolation is well worth the extra effort. After winding through uphill portion, the trail tops out at a humorous sign. I couldn't help myself and traveled the 0.1 miles to discover the completely unexciting deadend as promised.

The real payoff of McGrady Ridge is Wheat Overlook, which provides a spectacular view of the ocean. The picture fails to convey the enormity of the ocean at this angle, which portrays the ocean as a rising great wall high in the clouds. The views here are the best of the entire trip.

The final few miles back to headquarters are gentle and relaxing. I run into a lady who is making a second attempt at reaching Wheat Lookout, which I'm sure did not disappoint. I snap quite a few pictures and take my time because I'd rather the trip not end, which is a nice change from my typical, hectic finishes.

Epilogue

The end cannot be denied, and I finish my long hike at the general store. Alas, the promised burgers are a lie, so I have to make due with a gas station hot dog and ice-cream sandwich. It's It is a surprisingly decent substitute for greasy meat. Oatmeal cookies and ice-cream are a banging combo, and the processed sugar enters my blood just in time to keep the junky shakes at bay.