Trekking for Tarantulas - Overnight Trip at Henry Coe

Trip Overview

I had been itching to go on another trip, and I identified Henry Coe as yet another great spot to backpack in the neighborhood. I'm still blown away by the glut of options I have access to now. There were still two kids I hadn't tortured outdoors yet, and it was time for Adam (10 year old son) to transition into manhood via backpacking. I planned out a short trip because I wasn't sure about the change in elevation and how well Adam would handle the trek.

In planning the route, it looked like Henry Coe was a lot drier than Big Basin, so I had to be more deliberate about my plans for water. Thankfully, our trip was on the tail end of the rainy season, which meant the seasonal streams were flowing well. The plan was for a three day trip that started and ended at the Hunting Hollow entrance in May 2019.

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The Hike - Day 1

Adam and I are up early Saturday morning and on the road before 8 am. Adam is one of the earlier risers in our house, so the morning start doesn't really phase him. We have a quick breakfast, load the car, and head for Hunting Hollow.

When we arrive, the parking lot is filling up quickly, which isn't surprising since the rainy season is coming to a close. I see a lot of campers and hikers unloading, so I'm pretty certain that I've at least picked a good weekend for a trip. We hit the porta-potties, double check our packs, and then start on the trail! It begins on a dirt road that weaves across a few stream beds. We're able to navigate across the rocks without getting our feet very wet and start to head uphill.

On the trail, we stumble onto a tarantula, and Adam is elated. He has been watching Youtube videos about them for months, and this is the first tarantula he's seen in the wild. We scamper around it and take a few pictures before it scrambles into its hide. I had already told Adam that we might pick up a pet tarantula on the way home, and our run in with the real thing seals the deal.

On our way to the top, we take a break so that Adam can sit and whittle some sticks into spears. Unfortunately, his knife etiquette is a little lacking as evidenced by the wide berth people walking by are giving him. We are nearing Willson peak after a long climb, and Adam is not happy about the elevation. He is adamant that I should have warned him about all this uphill nonsense. The view at the peak is nice but overcast, and despite the manly poses, Adam makes it clear that the view is not worth the climb.

We go off trail into a copse of trees to find a place to camp for the night, but I'm not really feeling the conditions so we take a look at the map to decide where else we might go. Adam is excited to find out that there is a "Willson Camp," which he thinks is named after Wilson in the game Don't Starve, so we decide to head down there before setting up for the night.

It is quite a jog down the mountain and over to Willson Camp. Adam is already worn out, but he is taking the extra miles relatively well. As we get closer, we walk down some old fire roads that go in and out of the sunshine, making for an easygoing and peaceful finish.

When we arrive at Willson Camp, we see a large group of boys setting up camp. It turns out they are boy scouts practicing for a more involved camping trip. Adam again is a little too excited about his pocket knife, and one of the parents at the camp tries unsuccessfully to give Adam a quick lesson on knife safety. He's taken the knife safety courses, but I think his excitement at having the knife is overriding his good reason. A refresher course is definitely in order.

Willson camp is actually an abandoned homestead with an old barn that has been partially converted into a picnic area. Peering into the windows you can see old furniture and canned food strewn about, a fascinating glimpse into the past. There is a toolshed next to the house, and I briefly consider just sleeping in the toolshed and forgoing the tent. The soggy carpet in the toolshed persuades me to setup camp in the little spot between the house and shed. We have the tent up without too much trouble with a few knots to old plumbing since there isn't much room for stakes. There is a spout to fill up on water, which we do before heading over to the old barn for an early dinner.

There are a few campers already eating at the barn, and we chitchat about campfood choices for a bit. One of them is loaded up on Ramen, which I think has been underutilized on my trips. Adam is pretty happy about the camp food, especially the Oreos and chocolate.

After dinner Adam isn't interested in exploring and heads back to the tent to rest. We chill in the tent and chat until nightfall. He seems comfortable sleeping in the wilderness, but his allergies are going into overdrive and making it hard for him to breath. I have a single emergency benadryl that seems to help a little, and we drift off to sleep.

The Hike - Day 2

Unfortunately, my sleeping pad has a slow leak in it, so I wake up every couple hours from discomfort and have to re-inflate it. Adam and I are both less than excited at the prospect of spending a second night in the wilderness, and we agree that it is time to head to the car. The boy scouts get an early start, and while Adam and I are slowly making breakfast and packing up camp, they head out toward the parking lot. Adam is excited to get back on the trail because I've promised that the walk back to the car will be short.

The views on the way back are overcast but still gorgeous. The boy scouts must have taken some side trips or long rests since we are able to catch them at a fork about two miles from the parking lot. We steamroll through the miles because Adam is anxious to get back to civilization so he can get his pet tarantula.

We reach the parking lot in high spirits, and I tell Adam he can pick whatever he wants for our post-hike celebration feast. Of course he wants to go to McDonald's, so we drive over and get burgers and fries.

Then for the highlight of the trip, we head over to the East Bay Vivarium in Berkeley to check out tarantulas. I knew they could be expensive, but I wasn't prepared for the range in prices and cost of additional gear. This is Adam's first, so we decide on an easy to handle new-world tarantula, Honduran Curly Hair, which Adam promptly names Curly.

It isn't often that you are able to see your pet in the wild right before you get him/her, and I'm so happy Adam had the experience on his first backpacking trip. Like my other kids, he says he's done with backpacking for now, which means my quest to find a backpacking partner continues...

Big Basin Backpacking with Offspring - Rain Dance Maggie

Trip Overview

Big Basin is becoming my go-to spot for a quick weekend escape, and I wanted to share it with my two oldest children. Our planned hike was a 18ish mile loop starting at the visitor center, down to the Alder camp site for the first night, back up to the Sunset camp site for the second night, and then back to the start. I had originally planned a Lane/Sunset loop, but the campsites weren't available when I tried to reserve them about two weeks out. The camp sites were $15 a night, and the parking permit was $10. We completed most of the hike in two days in the beginning of March 2019.

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Preparation

I was getting a little stir-crazy being cooped up in the house over the Winter, so I decided that I would take a trip with my oldest son and daughter. I greatly enjoyed my last trip to Big Basin and thought it would be a great place for my daughter's first backpacking adventure. Redwoods are always a hit, right?

I used my trusty Osprey Atmos 65, and the kids each used inexpensive Amazon/Walmart packs. My pack was actually pretty full because I tried to keep my daughter's pack as light as possible for her first hike, probably around 10 pounds of mostly water. Our accommodations were my LanShan ultralight two man tent and various sleeping bags. I hiked in my Ultra Lone Peak 3.0, and I bought new shoes for the kids, some New Balance trail runners for my son and some Amazon hiking boots for my daughter.

Food was standard except for the goodies I brought just for the kids: Oreos, Oreo candy bars, Pringles, etc. A week before the trip, I packed the bags for a two mile test run that went well. The kids were moderately hyped and had no idea that two solid days of water torture awaited them.

Weather

The forecast for the weekend was suboptimal. Temperatures were fine, but rain was forecasted for much of the weekend. In hindsight, I was far too optimistic about the projected amount of rain and incorrectly relying on forecasts from the nearest weather station, which were completely wrong possibly due to vastly different micro-climates. It rained WAY more than I was expecting.

Difficulty

The trail conditions were mostly okay and clear. There were a few spots with fallen debris that were likely caused by recent storms, but the real issue was the muddy conditions. Even though I was able to keep my feet from getting completely drenched for the most part, the damp conditions were oppressive and from what I've read, somewhat typical of March in Big Basin.

The Hike - Day 1

We started the day full of energy and hope. I had warned the kids it would be rainy, and all seemed well as we pulled into the lot and started gearing up. The kids put on their rain jackets, and I shuffle into a shitty poncho and wish I would have just spent $10 on another decent rain jacket. It is a little misty as we set off, but the rain doesn't seem so bad in our initial excitement of being on the trail. My daughter is feeling great and entertains us with games and stories as we walk.

The initial excitement fades quickly though because the start is all uphill and the rain begins to soak in. The friendly chatter stops, and the kids become silent so I know things are turning South. I encourage them with promises of majestic views and downhill trails, but they are not buying what I am selling. I begin to doubt whether this trip is a good idea because the silence is morphing into muttering.

Despite the continued rain, the kids are troopers and continue to put one foot in front of the other. The rain is light but persistent, and the trail is wet but mostly not soggy. My daughter gets tired of wearing the rain pants, which she will regret later, and strikes a pose on a boulder. Moral is diminished but not yet completely gone.

When we get about halfway through, the kids are in outright mutiny. We have a conversation about turning back, but I convince them to go on because going back to the car would take just as long as going to the campsite. I promise that it will be warm and cozy in the tent. The kids are sure to let me know that I am (1) subjecting them to torture and (2) an idiot for not paying close enough attention to the weather forecast. I find their arguments to be exaggerated, but I sympathize with their sentiment because I am having similar thoughts in my own head.

We stop for lunch at Berry Creek Falls and muster our collective will to finish these last few miles strong. Turns out I am the only one hungry, and my kids can't be bothered to eat or appreciate the waterfall. We head South and are quickly stopped by the high waters of the creek. The water is so high that the metal crossings are submerged, and my mind churns as I weigh our options. The kids are NOT happy about the idea of removing our shoes and fording across, so I decide to skip the Alder camp site and turn around and head to Sunset camp for the night. It is supposedly fully reserved, but I have to just assume that at least one person cancelled their trip because of the weather.

Things really go bad when we start to travel uphill again. My son is mostly silent but his gaze is pure death, and my daughter is delivering an almost constant litany of complaints and despair. I can do nothing other than accept their judgment and promise that things will be better as soon as we arrive at camp. The only other highlight of the day are the ridiculous number of salamanders running around in the rain.

As we neared the top and Silver Falls, my daughter is really struggling with the uphill. I had already transferred most of the gear from her pack to mine, and I let her latch onto my pack so I could mule her up the hill as best as I could. She is completely losing it at this point.

We finally make it to the top early in the afternoon. The kids are done with walking, and I can't get the tent up fast enough so that they can get out of the rain. The kids get into the tent and, other than bathroom breaks, do not leave until the next morning when it is time to leave. My son brought pajamas, so he was able to change and get nice and dry. My daughter did not, which the kids are sure to remind me is my fault for not packing enough, and she's less than happy about not having dry clothes to change into. We are at least able to get out of our wet gear and crawl into our bags.

The stay in the tent is actually very pleasant in comparison to walking in the rain. We eat dinner and just chill in the tent and try to dry out our clothes as much as possible. Unfortunately, it is humid as hell so our clothes just go from soaked to slightly less soaked during the night.

The Hike - Day 2

My new sleeping pad is way comfier (Nemo - Astro Insulated Lite), so I wake up feeling pretty refreshed. It is still raining, but we plan to wait it out because the forecast said that the chance of rain should go down throughout the day. The kids are feeling better about the trip now, especially since we've decided to cut things a day short and head back to the car.

Around 9 the rain has eased up a little, and we get back on the trail. It is still damp and foggy, but we are excited about the prospects of getting home and dry. There are a still plenty of salamanders on the trail, and we discover a new friend, a banana slug!

My son has elected to hike in his pajamas since they are dry, and he is getting a lot of compliments about the pizza print. Overall, the Sunset Trail seems less muddy, probably because it is used less, and the hike goes by relatively quickly with little drama. An early highlight are some rocks with carvings. Of course, my kids immediately find a prominent penis to chortle about.

Sunset Trail doesn't have a lot of Redwoods, but the views are nice. It also has some beautiful, I think, Pacific Mandrones that catch the eye. It is nice to see the kids enjoying themselves more, but I can tell the shadow of the previous day is still in the back of their minds. Whenever it starts to rain a little, my son expresses his frustration at the ongoing bullshit weather. Thankfully, the rain is intermittent and the highlights are pretty frequent.

I promise my kids they can have all the junk food they want once we get back to headquarters, so we are cruising pretty nicely for the last couple miles. I somehow get a little mixed up on the trails though and lead us on a half mile detour. My son's disappointment at this knows no bounds. We eventually do make it though, and the kids gorge themselves on candy and soda. I'm feeling pretty done with the whole hiking thing too, so I let them sit with the gear while I go fetch the car. We made it!

Epilogue

I'm bummed that I was unable to pass along a love for backpacking to my kids on this trip. They both are adamant that they will never camp with me again, but I'm hopeful they'll come around eventually. Despite the less than ideal conditions and hardship, I thought it was a good trip and probably taught the kids a few lessons about adversity, which I suppose is part of a dad's job. I still have two kids that have never been backpacking, and I am definitely going to make sure the weather is a lot nicer for those trips.

Big Basin Backpacking Trip - Californication Achieved in 30 Miles

Trip Overview

Big Basin is a State Park with a plethora of trails and majestic redwoods. My hike was a 30ish mile loop starting at the visitor center, up to the Lane Camp site for the first night, down to the beach and Alder camp site for the second night, and then back to the start. There are plenty of options for trails between sites, and I tried to go through as many scenic routes as possible without retreading too much. The camp sites had to be reserved in advance for $15 a night and $10 for the parking permit. I completed the hike in three days in the beginning of October 2018.

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Preparation

I decided to go on this trip on somewhat of a whim. About two weeks before a three day weekend, it occurred to me that I had the opportunity for a trip, so I started searching around for nearby backpacking trails. Big Sur was an option, but I passed because there was a complete fire ban due to drought. I am not ready to do all cold food on a backpacking trip. The next best thing I could find was Big Basin, and I was excited about my first trip to a redwood forest.

I used my Osprey Atmos 65, which was complete overkill for a three day hike. It actually does a pretty good job of compacting itself with everything pulled tight, so it didn't feel clunky at all. The weight was also a non-issue because my planned daily mileage was pretty low. Other notable gear were my trusty LanShan ultralight two man tent and Aegismax mummy bag. I didn't have a scale to get the weight of my bag, but I'm guessing it was 25-30 pounds fully loaded with food and water. For shoes, I've been using the Ultra Lone Peak 3.0, which have performed admirably.

Food was pretty standard fare: Knorr sides, tortillas, peanut butter, coffee, Oreos, etc. I'm happy to say that the prep was a lot easier for this trip since I've had a few trips under my belt. It is nice having a base pack that is pretty locked in, so all I had to worry about was the food and water.

Weather

The forecast for the weekend was great. Highs in the high 60's and low 50's with plenty of sunshine. I'm really enjoying the great weather here on the west coast so far, which is much more conducive to outdoor activities than Louisiana/Mississippi.

Difficulty

The trails in general are very well marked. The only confusion I had was at portions of the trail that were shutdown for various reasons. The detours weren't too hard to follow though. Compared to what I am used to, the elevation change was no joke, especially on day three when I did the McCrary Ridge Trail.

The Hike - Day 1

As I descended into the valley, my driving skills are tested while I catch glimpses of the beautiful scenery. The woods look ancient and peaceful. Unfortunately, life has a way of destroying peace, and I start my first day parked on the side of the road where I still have cell signal so that I can get my house in Louisiana under contract. Then when I finally reach Big Basin Park Headquarters, I learn that they have WiFi...

By the time I make it down to the park, I'm raring to go because of the delay. I park the car, double check my locks/keys (okay maybe triple), and then speed down the trail. I briefly stop at a felled giant redwood because it is my first encounter with the behemoths, kids included for scale.

Unbeknownst to me during my planning, Big Basin was hosting a race on the same weekend as my backpacking trip. The constant trickle of runners coming down the trail interfere with my planned solitude a little, but the trail is still peaceful and a welcome break from the desk job. I chat up and cheer on some of the runners as they go by because they are looking a little haggard.

There had been almost no rain for the past couple months, so I erred on the side of caution and packed almost four liters of water. I find almost no water on the trail, which validates my decision. I think the last water is about two miles in before the trail starts to climb up into the dryness. The first section of the trail had quite a few redwoods along the creek, but their numbers greatly diminish as the elevation increases.

Near the top I run into a couple backpackers on their way down. They've been on the trail for a few days and look battle-hardened. I chat them up a little, and one of them shares that Big Basin HQ has a restaurant that serves great burgers. Target acquired! I thank them for the info and continue on the trail back into the trees. While at the top, I snap a couple pictures, including one of a dark and mysterious adventurer.

I cruise through the last couple miles to get to the camp site. I snap a picture of a lone redwood on the way that seems overly large in its isolation. When I arrive there is a couple setting up camp, but all the other sites are open. I wander around until I find the highest one and drop my pack off. It feels good to be at my destination after a short afternoon hike.

As dusk settles in the campsites begin to fill. A bunch of boy scouts arrive while blaring "We Are the Champions" on a smartphone. The joy of their youth makes me smile and shake my head. I eventually setup my tent and settle in for the night. The site is very cozy and has nice facilities for a rustic site. Dinner is simple and satisfying, sending me to bed with a full belly.

The Hike - Day 2

I wake up feeling less than refreshed because sleeping in a tent is still not my friend. I typically spend the night spinning on the air mattress in an attempt to spread the pain. Maybe I just need to sleep rugged more often to acclimate. I'll have to plan more camping trips and see.

I get a pretty good start on the morning with oatmeal and coffee, and I'm on the trail again around 8:30. My legs feel great since I'm coming off a short day, but I'm down to one liter of water. After a couple miles I discover an old shingle mill. The old burners and other equipment give the place an apocalyptic vibe, which I'm a fan of.

I make my way down to ridge road, which appears to be an old log trail. There are no runners, and I appreciate the peace and quiet. At one point I stop to listen to the wind rustling through the trees because it is so loud it sounds like the ocean. The trees eventually clear and reveal a beautiful view of the ocean. Apparently, this is also the spot where people usually run out of nudes.

I think about changing my route, but I decide not to because I'm low on water and want to stick to my original plan with known water sources. When I make it back to the Skyline to Sea trail, the steady stream of runners reappears. I somewhat envy their mobility and swiftness as they run down the trail, but I think I am happier trudging down the trail to give me more time to soak it all in. 

Berry Creek Falls is beautiful despite the lack of rain in recent months. I stop to eat lunch and chat with a couple that are camping for the first time in a long time. I'm blown away by the weight they are carrying, especially when he starts telling me about the fresh produce he has packed. You have to tip your hat to folks that are making fine cuisine in the middle of nowhere on a camp stove. I stop to fill up my water from the Creek just in case.

After the falls I focus on my pace so that I can make it down to the beach and back up to my campsite before night fall. The woods are replaced by farms, which are then replaced by marshland. The last bit I scramble down before the beach is great for building my anticipation.

Arriving at the beach feels lovely, and the kiteboarders and folks stunt kiting are unexpected, free entertainment. I take off my shoes and walk through the cold restoring waters of the ocean. I chillax for a bit and then gear back up for a quick couple miles to the campsite. There is a little park at the bottom with a rest area, where I fill up my water.

On the way to the campsite, I spot a bobcat that seems to be mutually curious. I creep toward it for a better look before deciding I should probably just leave it alone. You can't trust cats. Upon arriving at Adele Camp I find it to be completely deserted. I checked the next door campsite, and it only has one family there. 

I'm a little weirded out about camping at an empty campsite for some reason, but I decide to just go with it and setup for the night. I hate to admit that my paranoia grows as night settles in. I'm used to camping on the trail by myself or camping at sites with other people, but being the only person at a site feels wrong. I start shining my flashlight into the woods when I hear animals rustling and feel myself getting worked up over nothing. 

Ultimately, I realize that I'm perfectly safe in the woods and settle my mind down so I can fall asleep. Another uncomfortable night at least causes me to wake up in the morning far before sunrise for some stargazing.

The Hike - Day 3

I'm on the trail around 7:30 after my date with the stars. The trail is pretty deserted since it is Columbus Day, so I finally attain a full day free from runners. A little ways in I spot what I think is a yellow piece of trash, but it is actually a banana slug, crazy looking buggers.

When I arrive at the turnoff for McGrady Ridge, I'm confronted with warning signs about extremely steep climbs that are more suitable for horseback riders. It makes me second guess my planned route, but I put on my big-boy pants and soldier on.

McGrady is STEEP and nicely shaded. The complete desolation is well worth the extra effort. After winding through uphill portion, the trail tops out at a humorous sign. I couldn't help myself and traveled the 0.1 miles to discover the completely unexciting deadend as promised.

The real payoff of McGrady Ridge is Wheat Overlook, which provides a spectacular view of the ocean. The picture fails to convey the enormity of the ocean at this angle, which portrays the ocean as a rising great wall high in the clouds. The views here are the best of the entire trip.

The final few miles back to headquarters are gentle and relaxing. I run into a lady who is making a second attempt at reaching Wheat Lookout, which I'm sure did not disappoint. I snap quite a few pictures and take my time because I'd rather the trip not end, which is a nice change from my typical, hectic finishes.

Epilogue

The end cannot be denied, and I finish my long hike at the general store. Alas, the promised burgers are a lie, so I have to make due with a gas station hot dog and ice-cream sandwich. It's It is a surprisingly decent substitute for greasy meat. Oatmeal cookies and ice-cream are a banging combo, and the processed sugar enters my blood just in time to keep the junky shakes at bay.